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Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 12
Caldas de Reis → Padrón
April 26, 2026
Distance: ~13 miles
Steps: ~28,000 (Bob)

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Changing it up

Going to change things up a bit today and start with Victor’s perspective.

Partly because it was a big day for him mentally, and partly because it probably shows he’s a lot deeper than I am.

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Victor’s reflection

He said there was a clear shift today.

Up until now, he’d been feeling sad that the Camino was coming to an end. Almost trying to slow things down, stretch the days out, not wanting it to finish.

Then today, it flipped.

It became about finishing. Getting to Santiago. Getting it done.

And he caught himself doing it.

That same pattern from normal life. The rush. The need to complete and move on. Like finishing a meal and immediately wanting the bill.

It didn’t sit right with him.

One minute he was fully in it, enjoying the walk, the conversations, the experience. The next, his mind was already ahead, trying to close it out.

He had to stop himself.

Remind himself to slow down. To stay present. To not rush something that actually matters.

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The weight

On top of that, he had a lot on his mind.

Thinking about Kingston. Lori. Work.

You could feel that it was a heavier day for him.

Physically as well.

He said it was the hottest day so far, sweating a lot more, and just generally more tired than usual.

His right quad started playing up. Tight, a bit of numbness, not quite right. Enough to make him question tomorrow.

That planted a bit of doubt.

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The awareness

But what stood out was the awareness.

He recognised it.

Didn’t let it run.

Pulled himself back.

Said to himself:

• Slow down
• Stay in it
• Don’t rush the end

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The insight

The best line of the day from him:

This trip has been like going away with someone and getting to know them.

Except that someone is yourself.

That landed.

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The reset

By the evening, he’d already reset.

Talking about being intentional tomorrow. Staying positive. Not focusing on pain.

And remembering that every day we’ve questioned, we’ve still done it.

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The night before

Sleep was mixed.

I was up for a couple of hours. Kids outside, Saturday night noise.

Victor had one of his best nights.

Same place, different experience.

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The start

We left later than we ever have. Just after 10:00 AM.

Thought we’d be the last out.

Not even close.

More pilgrims now than any other point. You can feel the pull toward Santiago.

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Late morning check-in

Around 12:06 PM, about an hour and fifteen in.

Covered roughly 4.65 miles.

Good progress for a late start.

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The conditions

Hottest day so far.

You could feel it building through the afternoon.

More sweat, more effort, more fatigue.

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The walk

A steady day.

No major climbs, no drama.

Just moving forward.

Toward the end, legs felt heavy. Heat didn’t help.

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Arrival into Padrón

First impression wasn’t great.

Came in through what felt like the rough side. Litter, not well kept.

First time we’ve seen that on the trip.

Got better as we moved toward the centre.

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The apartment

Another apartment tonight.

More comfortable, but more hassle.

Harder to find, more coordination.

Not as simple as an albergue.

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The town

Padrón has history.

This is where St James is said to have first arrived by boat.

It’s also known for the famous Padrón peppers, although we didn’t actually get them as they’re out of season.

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The physical

End of day:

• ~26,000 steps (Bob)
• ~30,000 steps (Victor)
• ~13.1 miles

Body tired.

Legs heavy.

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The bigger picture

From Porto to here:

• ~165–170 miles walked
• ~350,000 to 400,000 steps

Remaining:

• ~16 miles to Santiago

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Bob

For me, simpler day.

Tired, but steady.

No big swings.

Just aware we’re one day out.

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The evening

Strong finish.

Local place, no tourists.

Good food.

Relaxed evening with pilgrims we’ve met along the way.

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Where we are

One day out.

Body tired.

Mind aware.

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The close

Sitting at dinner at 7:44 PM.

Victor’s thinking deeply.

I’m just getting on with it.

Tomorrow we walk into Santiago.

Final day.

Time to finish it properly.

Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 11
Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis
April 25, 2026
Distance: ~15 miles
Steps: ~35,000

We left later than we ever have today, around 9:15 or 9:30, and were among the last to leave the albergue.

At this point, it doesn’t really matter.

We’re in a rhythm now. We understand how this works. There’s no real advantage in rushing out early just to arrive somewhere that’s still closed.

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The start

About an hour in, roughly 2.75 miles down, and settling into the day.

Distance ended up being closer to 15 miles, which again just feels normal now.

More pilgrims straight away. You can feel the build as Santiago gets closer.

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Along the way

Today had a strong sense of history running through it.

A lot of woodland walking, shaded and quiet, but layered with:

• Old stone paths worn down over centuries
• Cruceiros marking the route
• Small chapels and shrines
• Traditional Galician stone houses

You pass through places that feel unchanged.

People going about their day, watching pilgrims pass like it’s always been this way.

There are sections that feel Roman, others medieval. It’s not just a walk, it’s a path that’s been used for generations.

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The people

Met some great people again today.

Iona from Edinburgh stood out early on.

More bikes on the trail now as well, so staying aware.

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The shift

We’re recognising people now.

Same faces showing up again and again.

No introductions needed anymore. Just a nod, a quick word, shared understanding.

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The feel

Energy stayed high all day.

We’re properly in stride now.

Even had another bit of a dance with the backpacks on, which seems to have become a theme.

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The numbers

Finished the day on about 35,000 steps.

When you think about that, day after day, it’s a bit ridiculous compared to normal life.

But out here, it’s just what you do.

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The body

Blister held up.

Managed it well this morning and it stayed under control.

Knees good.

Legs tired, but that’s just the baseline now.

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Community and connection

Today was about people.

Lots of familiar faces, lots of new ones.

Walking together, sitting in cafés, drifting in and out of conversations.

It’s less about the miles now and more about the experience.

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Victor

First day where Victor and I didn’t walk most of it together.

Probably 80 percent apart, linking up here and there.

Good to see.

He’s in it now. In the rhythm. Connecting with people.

That’s one of the real gifts of the Camino.

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Arrival into Caldas de Reis

Came into Caldas de Reis and you can feel the history straight away.

This place dates back to Roman times, known for its thermal springs.

You can still see them today. Hot water flowing through parts of the town, steam rising.

Crossed over the old Roman bridge coming in, which sets the tone.

Town has a good feel:

• River running through it
• Stone buildings
• Plenty of life, cafés, and restaurants

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The countdown

Now two days out.

It’s real.

You start to see it in the markers, the people, the conversations.

We’ll see a lot of the same faces again in Santiago.

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Slowing down

We’re taking more time now.

Longer coffee stops.

Less rushing.

As Victor said, just soaking it up.

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The evening

Another strong evening.

Asked a local for a place to eat without tourists.

Didn’t disappoint.

Simple, local, relaxed.

Sat with pilgrims we’ve met along the way, easy conversation.

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The close

Back now, resting ahead of the penultimate day.

Body good.

Head clear.

And very aware this is coming to an end.

Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 10
Redondela → Pontevedra
April 24, 2026
Distance: ~13 miles

Back on it this morning.

Left the hostel around 8:45, later than most. Definitely among the last few pilgrims heading out.

This was the one we half-jokingly referred to as the homeless shelter. Somewhere between that and a military barracks. Very basic. Thin foam mattresses, extras for everything.

And yet, oddly, between the two of us, probably the best night’s sleep we’ve had so far.

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The morning

Good steady start.

Straight into a climb again, and a bit of comedy along the way with Victor doing a full wardrobe adjustment mid-path, which got plenty of laughs from passing pilgrims.

We’re seeing more and more people now as we get closer to Santiago. The trail is definitely busier.

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Along the way

A lot of today was through woods and shaded paths.

Classic Galician countryside:

• Forest trails
• Small streams
• Stone paths
• Occasional glimpses of small villages

We also passed a number of old stone crosses (cruceiros) and small chapels, which are scattered along this route. They’ve been guiding pilgrims for centuries.

There’s a real sense that you’re walking something historic, not just a trail.

At points, you come across sections of old Roman-style paving and medieval paths, which reminds you this route has been used for a very long time.

Quiet, peaceful, and very reflective for most of the day.

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Midday

About halfway through, still moving well.

Body holding up. Knees strong.

Just general fatigue in the legs now, which is expected.

And the markers are making it real.

74 km to go.

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Arrival into Pontevedra

Came into Pontevedra and it didn’t disappoint.

First, the albergue.

A proper, purpose-built setup. Clean, organised, clearly designed for pilgrims. Big step up from the night before.

Victor got washing done. I got sorted.

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The blister

First real issue for me.

Blister on the heel of my right foot.

Felt the hotspot earlier but didn’t realise it had fully formed underneath.

Didn’t even get one on the Francés, so slightly frustrating.

Got Compeed on it now. Should be manageable if I stay on top of it.

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The town

Pontevedra has history everywhere.

It’s one of the most important medieval towns in Galicia, and you can feel that straight away walking in.

• The old town is largely car-free
• Narrow stone streets
• Historic squares
• Churches and old buildings everywhere

It used to be a significant port and trading city in the Middle Ages, particularly known for fishing and maritime activity.

The Basilica of Santa María and the Church of the Pilgrim (Virgen Peregrina) are key landmarks tied directly to the Camino.

There’s a real sense of preservation here. It hasn’t been over-modernised.

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The atmosphere

Very lively.

Lots of energy, people out, restaurants full, proper atmosphere.

Plenty of outside dining, groups gathering, a bit of a buzz about the place.

You can tell it’s a destination, not just a stop.

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The people

Met a lot of good people today.

Pilgrims from Scotland, Boston, and all over.

Short conversations, shared laughs, everyone on their own journey but overlapping for a moment.

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Looking ahead

Now very much within striking distance.

• Tomorrow: ~13 miles
• Then: ~11 miles
• Then: ~16 into Santiago

It’s getting real now.

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The close

Sitting in the square now, near the centre, having a beer to finish the day.

Body tired, but in a good way.

Good town. Good energy.

Another solid day done.

Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 9
Vigo → Redondela
April 23, 2026
Distance: ~10–11 miles

Only a pathetic 28,000 steps today 😂

A different kind of start today.

Stayed in Vigo last night and, for the first time on this trip, allowed for a genuinely relaxed morning. Not a lie-in exactly, but no rush, no pressure to get out the door early.

The hostel is excellent. Probably one of the best we’ve stayed in so far. Comfortable, well run, and exactly what was needed after the last couple of days.

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Vigo

Vigo has left a mark.

Out of all the places so far, this is the one that stands out as somewhere I’d come back to properly. It’s got real energy.

Busy streets, cafés full, people out early. It feels like a proper working city rather than just somewhere passing through.

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A proper pilgrim moment

Decided to hand wash clothes again this morning in the shower.

No chance they’ll dry in time, so they’re pinned to the back of the backpack today like a proper pilgrim.

So even if today isn’t a 20-mile day, it still feels like the Camino.

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The coffee

One thing that stands out every time over here is the coffee.

Strong, rich, with that layer on top, the crema.

Completely different to back home. I’d love to replicate it in the States, but realistically that means a proper machine and that’s not happening.

So for now, just enjoying it while I’m here.

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The plan

Simple plan today:

• Walk the city a bit
• Find breakfast
• Head out toward Redondela

No rush.

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The climb out of Vigo

About 4½ miles in, and the walk out of Vigo was probably the steepest sustained climb we’ve had.

Just kept going up. No let-up. You feel it straight away.

Didn’t fully appreciate how tough it would be, but it was real.

The views back made it worth it though. Looking down over the port, the sea, the movement of the city. You see Vigo properly from up there.

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People along the way

Met a lot of pilgrims this morning.

One couple stood out. He from Belgium, she from Bartlesville, Oklahoma.

Met on the Camino, got married in 2017, and now this is part of their life. They’d been down to Porto and were now walking back toward Santiago.

They seemed genuinely content. Like they’d found something that works.

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A small moment

Stopped at a small setup along the trail. A local lady selling drinks and fruit.

Very simple.

We had a couple of cold drinks, an orange, a banana.

Victor gave her five euros. I went to get more and she wouldn’t take it. Said it was enough.

That stays with you.

There’s a decency to people out here that stands out.

Went back and asked for a photo with her. Big smile. Happy to do it.

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The theme

One of the main themes today has been kindness.

Simple, but powerful.

Just basic human decency:

• Being kind
• Wanting others to do well
• Giving without expecting

You see more of it out here.

And it stands out.

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The shift

The Camino starts physical.

Then becomes mental.

Now it’s moving into something more reflective.

You find yourself thinking about things you normally wouldn’t.

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The descent and arrival

The last part of the day was the opposite of the morning.

What went up came down, quickly.

Very steep descent into Redondela. Felt it in the knees straight away. Left knee started to play up a bit, something to keep an eye on.

Came into the town and, if I’m honest, it’s not much.

Feels like a place that exists because of the Camino rather than anything else.

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The albergue

The albergue is very basic.

About as stripped back as it gets. More like a shelter than anything else.

People are good, no issues there.

But this is the more traditional side of the Camino. No frills.

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The reality

Even though it was only around 10 miles, we both feel it.

Back-to-back big days take something out of you.

Doesn’t help arriving somewhere that doesn’t exactly lift the mood.

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The food situation

Same lesson again.

Everything shuts mid-afternoon.

If you don’t eat before 3, you’re waiting until 7 or 8.

Walked around trying to find somewhere. Options are limited and average at best.

Need to plan that better, but part of the rhythm here.

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The feeling

There’s a mix of emotions starting to come through.

Sadness and excitement.

You can feel the Camino coming to an end.

Caught myself today looking at trains from Santiago to A Coruña, planning the next step. That wasn’t even a thought at the start.

Part of me doesn’t want this to end.

But there’s also a sense of looking forward, taking what’s been learned and applying it.

For Victor, being his first Camino, this will stay with him.

These experiences don’t leave you.

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Where we are

Tired.

A bit flat on arrival.

But steady.

Not every day is a highlight.

Some are just part of the journey.

And this was one of those.

Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 8
Baiona → Vigo
Distance: ~19 miles

Started the day better than expected.

After yesterday’s 22 miles, I thought I’d wake up in bits, but actually felt alright. Not fresh, but certainly workable.

No breakfast at the albergue, which caught us out, so ended up walking about 30 minutes before finding a place for coffee. Not ideal, but that first coffee sorts you out.

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The feel early on

Interesting how the body works.

You expect to be broken after a day like yesterday, but once you get moving, it loosens up and gets on with it.

Legs a bit heavy, nothing dramatic.

Mentally in a good place. There’s something about getting through a big day that carries you into the next one.

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The start

Steady start out of Baiona.

Still along the coast early on, which helps. Nothing aggressive, just easing into it.

More of an amble than a grind today, although the mileage says otherwise.

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The mileage reality

We ended up doing 19 miles today.

Stack that on top of yesterday’s 22 and it starts to sound a bit ridiculous.

Back home in Oklahoma, this just doesn’t happen. You’re not doing 40,000 to 50,000 steps day after day.

Out here, it somehow becomes normal.

That’s probably one of the biggest shifts. What would seem excessive at home just becomes part of the routine.

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The coastal towns

Some of the towns along this stretch are genuinely beautiful. Proper storybook stuff.

Beaches almost empty. You can tell they’d be packed in summer, but right now they feel calm, almost untouched.

People just going about their day:

• Sitting outside having coffee
• Chatting with friends
• No rush

There’s a very relaxed, community feel to it.

It’s something you notice in Spain. And it reminds me a lot of the French Camino once you’re over this side. Slower pace, more grounded.

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Coming into Vigo

Then you hit Vigo, and it’s a different world.

You come off the quiet coast and suddenly you’re in a proper city.

Busy, noisy, full of life. It’s got a bit of everything going on.

It actually takes you by surprise how big it is.

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A bit of history

Vigo is all about the sea.

It sits on the Ría de Vigo, which is one of the best natural harbours around here, and that’s shaped everything.

Started as a fishing town and grew from there. Now it’s one of the biggest fishing ports in Europe.

Shipbuilding is a big part of it as well. You can see it as you come in, cranes, yards, big vessels. It gives the place that working, slightly gritty feel.

There’s history too:

• Drake had a go at it in the 1500s
• The Battle of Vigo Bay (1702) just offshore
• Old town, Casco Vello, still has that older character

So it’s a mix of old maritime history and modern working city.

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The last miles

One thing that stood out again today was the final couple of miles.

Doesn’t matter if the day is 10 miles, 15, or 20. Those last 2 miles always feel the hardest.

You know you’re close, but not quite there.

Body’s had enough, mind wants to switch off, but you still have to keep going.

That’s where the work is, every single time.

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The mindset

There’s definitely been a shift after yesterday.

Less expectation.

More awareness.

Not taking anything at face value anymore in terms of distance.

Trust it to a point, but always verify.

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Midday check-in

Clocked about 40,696 steps today.

Not quick, just steady.

And that’s what gets it done.

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The feel now

Legs heavy, as expected.

But nothing sharp or worrying. Just that underlying fatigue.

Mentally steady. No drama, no swings.

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The approach

After yesterday, it’s not about chasing anything.

Just:

• Keep it steady
• Manage energy
• Don’t overthink it

One step at a time.

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Observation

The body adapts quickly.

Two days ago, 20 miles felt like a stretch.

Now, even tired, it feels doable.

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The home stretch

You can start to feel Santiago now.

It feels like the back end of the journey. The days ahead look lighter, which should give more time to take things in rather than just push through.

There’ll still be a final stretch, but it feels under control.

Two full days planned in Santiago as well, which is something to look forward to.

Everything leads there.

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Looking ahead

Tomorrow should be shorter.

Plan is to take it easy, have a proper morning, maybe not leave until around midday, get some food, and then head off.

First genuinely relaxed start we’ve had.

If it comes in around 10 miles, that’ll do nicely.

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Where we are

End of the day.

Tired, but in good shape.

Another solid one done.

Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 7
A Guarda → Baiona
Distance: ~22 miles
Steps: ~45,000+ (Victor ~50,000)

The toughest day yet

Today was hard. Proper hard.

We ended up doing around 22 miles, about 45,000 steps, with Victor pushing closer to 50,000. Way beyond what we expected when we set off.

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The start

Victor had a rough night. Was sick, didn’t sleep well, so we left much later than usual.

On top of that, we thought this was going to be a 14 mile day at most.

It wasn’t even close.

That set the tone early.

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The psychological shift

There’s a real psychological effect when you think you’ve got a manageable day and then realise it’s something else entirely.

At the start, 14 miles feels fine.

When that becomes 20 plus, it hits you.

But later in the day, the reverse happens. You think you’ve got more left than you actually do, and when you realise it’s less, it gives you a lift.

You ride those waves all day.

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The route and history

This stretch is classic Galician coast.

You’re moving along old fishing territory, small villages that have been working the Atlantic for generations. Places like Oia, where the Monastery of Santa María de Oia sits right on the coastline. It’s been there since the 12th century, originally a Cistercian monastery, and you pass it almost unexpectedly. Big, solid, right against the ocean, built to last.

A lot of this route follows old coastal tracks that were used long before this became a Camino route. Fishermen, traders, local movement between villages.

You see it in:

• Stone walls
• Narrow paths
• Old houses facing the sea

It’s not polished. It’s working coastline.

As you move north, the terrain shifts between:

• Coastal paths
• Small road sections
• Rolling climbs

And then toward the end, it turns more demanding.

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The grind

We broke the day into sections and just kept moving.

Talking helped. Keeps the mind engaged and stops you dropping too far into the fatigue.

Right towards the end, we saw what looked like a mountain ahead. Assumed we’d skirt it.

We didn’t.

Straight up and across the top.

By then:

• Light was fading
• Rain had started
• Legs were gone

It all stacked up into what felt like a proper test. Almost a rite of passage type day.

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The finish

We came in as night closed in, in the rain.

At the start of the day, it didn’t look possible.

But we did it.

That’s the simple truth.

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The body

Body’s taken a hit.

Feet sore, legs heavy.

About 2 miles from the end, I felt a hotspot starting. Didn’t want to stop, but did anyway and sorted it. Right call.

Also had some proper chafing issues. Kit gave up halfway through the day, which made things uncomfortable. Trip to the pharmacy later to deal with that.

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Arrival

The albergue is basic, but after a day like that, it doesn’t matter.

Straight into the shower.

Now sitting in a very local bar waiting for food. No English, no tourists, just locals. Prices are low, service is slow, and getting the bill takes patience.

You just go with it.

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The lesson

Today is a good reminder.

Trust, but verify.

We’ve been using apps and tools a lot, including ChatGPT, and it’s useful. But you can’t take it as exact.

Call it 80 percent reliable.

The rest, you figure out on the ground.

That’s part of the Camino as well.

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The feel

Physically, we’re pretty beaten up.

But mentally and spiritually, strong.

Spirits stayed good all the way through, which made a big difference.

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Looking ahead

Tomorrow is Baiona → Vigo.

We’re being told around 15 to 16 miles.

After today, we’re not taking that at face value.

Plan is:

• Start earlier
• Stay steady
• Break it into sections again
• Expect it to be longer than advertised

From what we understand, it’s:

• Still coastal to begin with
• Then gradually more built up as you approach Vigo

More infrastructure, more people, less isolated than today.

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Bottom line

Today looked easy.

It wasn’t.

It turned into one of the toughest days so far.

And we got through it.

That’s what counts.

Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 6
Caminha (Portugal) → A Guarda (Spain)
Distance: ~7 miles
Border crossing day

Bit of a slower start this morning, which was needed after yesterday.

Clothes hadn’t dried overnight, so first job was finding a laundrette to finish them off. Not glamorous, but part of the rhythm now. You either stay on top of it or it catches you out.

Breakfast was decent, then had a proper walk around Caminha before leaving. It’s a good town. Old square, bits of history, not overdone. Worth taking the time rather than just passing through. Got some solid footage.

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The crossing

Plan was simple. Ferry across the river into Spain.

Didn’t happen.

Water levels were too low, so the ferry wasn’t running. The alternative was a small speedboat, run by a local fisherman, taking five people at a time.

So that’s what we did.

You walk down to the river, stand there looking across at Spain, and instead of a proper ferry terminal, you’ve got this small boat rocking in the water.

We climbed in, packs and all, sat low in the boat, and off we went.

It was quick, a bit bumpy, and felt very local. No fuss, no system, just someone getting you from one side to the other.

Much better than a ferry in a way. Felt like a proper crossing.

You could see the Spanish side getting closer, and it had a bit more meaning because of how we got there.

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First steps in Spain

Straight off the boat and straight into it.

No gentle start. Immediate climb.

Proper push uphill through wooded trails. Narrow in places, uneven ground, more technical than the coastal paths we’d been on.

It was a good change. Different type of effort. Gets your attention straight away.

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The day

Only about 7 miles today.

After the last few days of 15 to 18 miles, it feels odd. You keep thinking there must be more to do.

Like you’re stopping too early.

But that’s the point of today.

Stopped for a coffee and bumped into people we’ve seen along the way. Irish ladies from earlier days, plus a Dutch couple. Good chat, bit of connection. That’s one of the better parts of this whole thing.

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Arrival

Came off the climb and A Guarda opened up below.

Proper seaside town. Working harbour, fishing boats, simple feel to it. Not polished, but real.

It’s known for its seafood, especially lobster, and you can see that straight away around the port.

Up above the town is Monte Santa Trega, with old Celtic settlements going back over 2,000 years. You don’t need to be into history to feel that this place has been around a long time.

We’re staying in a former convent.

Thick stone walls, simple rooms, quiet atmosphere. You can feel the age of it. Not modern in the flashy sense, but solid and grounded.

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The shift

Something’s changed physically now.

After a few hard days, the body has caught up.

No niggles. No real aches.

Carrying the pack, around 15 to 17 pounds, and it barely registers. You just move without thinking about it.

Same thing happened on the Frances. There’s a point where it all settles in and becomes normal.

Feels like we’ve hit that point again.

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The tension

Interesting one today.

Part of me wants to keep going. Add more miles. Push on.

But I know that’s not the smart move.

Today is about restraint. Letting the body recover so you can keep going properly over the next stretch.

That’s part of the discipline out here.

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Evening in A Guarda

Went out this evening and had a proper look around.

Really quite picturesque. Harbour, small streets, good feel to it.

Found a small bar. Very basic food, but exactly what we needed. Simple, no fuss, and enjoyable.

Spent some time feeding the seagulls as well. Absolute units. One of them took what looked like half a loaf of bread in one go.

Ridiculous, but funny to watch.

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Looking ahead

Back to it tomorrow. A Guarda to Baiona, around 12 to 13 miles.

Looks like we might get a bit of rain, which I’m actually looking forward to. Carried the rain gear, so it’ll be good to finally use it.

Probably another couple of days along the coast, then we turn inland and head properly towards Santiago.

From there, it’s steady progress. Mid-teen miles most days.

---

The feel

Good day.

Not about distance, just about resetting.

Body feels strong again.

Ready to get moving tomorrow.

Viana do Castelo → Caminha
Distance: 18 miles
Steps: ~39,000
Last full day in Portugal

Started the day simply. Breakfast was nothing to write home about.

We stopped early for a coffee by the beach. Victor had a pastel. I stuck with coffee. That was enough to get going.

Straight onto the trail after that. No hanging around. Also reminded ourselves to actually start the tracking app. Easy to forget, but it matters.

And the stamps. Two a day. No stamps, no Compostela at the end. Simple as that.

---

The walk

We stayed on the coast. Flat, which was welcome after yesterday. Cooler too, around 70°F.

Knee brace on. Poles out. That helped.

Plenty of bikes again. You just stay aware and keep moving.

---

Midday reality

Around 1pm we hit 9 miles.

We both thought we had maybe 15 or 16 total, so figured we were close.

Checked it.

Still over 10 miles to go.

That takes the wind out of you a bit.

Feet were burning. Victor called it early. I had a hotspot starting, so stopped and sorted it properly.

That’s one thing you learn quickly. Don’t push through it. Stop, fix it, move on.

---

3PM check-in

About 2½ to 3 hours left.

We were both tired. Bit frustrated. Not much talking by then.

If you had to score it:

• Physical: 3 or 4 out of 10
• Mental: 6 or 7

You just keep going. There isn’t really another option.

Funny thing is, in the morning you feel like an 8 or 9 across the board. Ready for it. As the day goes on, that drops off.

You also stop caring about small things. Bad service, people getting in the way, cyclists. You just move on. Not worth the energy.

---

Last stretch

Last third was just one step at a time.

No rhythm. No flow. Just keep going.

As we got close, maybe a quarter mile out, you feel it shift.

You know you’re nearly there, so your head lifts.

But physically you’re running on empty.

Strange combination, but very real.

---

Arrival

Caminha. Last stop in Portugal.

18 miles. Around 39,000 steps.

We treated ourselves to a hotel. Needed it.

Good shower. Proper reset.

Washed all my clothes in the sink and hung them up. Hopefully dry by morning. If not, they go on the back of the pack like everything else.

---

Looking ahead

Tomorrow is a short one.

Boat across into Spain, then an easy walk into A Guarda.

Call it a reset day. Body needs it.

---

Perspective

Everything I’ve got is in a backpack. About 15 pounds.

That’s your life out here.

You realise pretty quickly you don’t need much.

Walk. Eat. Rest.

That’s it.

---

The feel

Hard day.

Took a lot out of us.

But we got it done.

And that’s what matters.

Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 4
Esposende → Viana do Castelo
Distance: 16.7 miles
Time: 6h 08m moving
Steps: 38,000
Elevation gain: 1,254 ft

Today was the hardest day so far.

16.7 miles, but it wasn’t just the distance. The trails were technically difficult in sections, especially through the woods and forest. Uneven ground, climbs, and having to stay focused the whole time. It felt like proper hiking, not just walking.

The sun was brutal. Long exposed stretches with no real shade. It just wears you down over hours.

The system is still working. Break the day into thirds. Coffee early. Try for food in the middle. Push through the last section. But today even that felt like work.

The last third was one step at a time for sure. No flow, just keep moving forward and get it done.

Victor’s Instagram reel: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXKyBZqjiIU/?igsh=MTRqc3dhMXc4NWhldg==

Bob’s Strava activity: https://strava.app.link/YTt0i9VXp2b
Victor’s Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1BWa5gD9Cb/?mibextid=wwXIfr

---

The walk

Leaving Esposende, the route shifted. Still coastal in parts, but more inland sections through forest and rougher terrain.

That’s where it got hard. The elevation gain and technical footing made it a proper effort all the way through. Not a day where you switch off.

There were fewer places to stop again. You just keep moving and adjust.

---

Arrival

Viana do Castelo is a bigger town, and you feel that when you arrive. More going on, more energy. After a day like today, that matters.

Went into the city in the evening. Very quaint, easy to walk around, and a good contrast after the day.

Spent a couple of hours there and met people from Ukraine, Ireland, Italy, and Switzerland. That’s part of the Camino. Different paths, same direction.

---

Body

Feet are holding up. That system is solid.

Knee started to play up a bit today. Not surprising given the terrain and distance.

Sunburn is building.

Everything is manageable, but you feel it.

---

Looking ahead

Tomorrow is about 15 miles to Caminha. Last full day in Portugal before crossing into Spain.

Will need to manage the pace with the knee.

---

Four days in.

Today took more out of me. Honestly, I’m tired enough that I don’t really feel like writing this.

But the day is done. That’s what matters.

Vila do Conde → Esposende
Distance: ~15 miles
Steps: ~35,000
From Porto: ~35 miles completed
To Santiago: ~135 miles remaining

Today was a full day. About 15 miles and roughly 35,000 steps.

It was sunny again. Not brutally hot, but constant exposure, and I got burned for the second day running. The coastal route gives you long open stretches with very little shade, so it builds over time.

Victor’s Instagram reel: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXKyBZqjiIU/?igsh=MTRqc3dhMXc4NWhldg==

Bob’s Strava activity: https://strava.app.link/YTt0i9VXp2b

Victor’s Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1BWa5gD9Cb/?mibextid=wwXIfr

I’m starting to settle into a rhythm now. What’s working is breaking the day into thirds.

First third, about 5 miles in, stop for coffee.
Second third, around 10 miles, look for lunch.
Final third, push through to the destination.

Simple, but it works.

---

Vila do Conde → Esposende

We left Vila do Conde this morning, a town with strong maritime history. It played a role during Portugal’s Age of Discovery, particularly in shipbuilding. You can feel that as you walk out along the river and toward the coast.

From there, the route stays close to the Atlantic. Boardwalks, dunes, small fishing areas, and long open stretches. As we moved further north, it became noticeably less commercial. Fewer cafés, fewer places to stop.

That showed up today.

We reached the 10-mile mark expecting to find somewhere for lunch, and there was nothing. That’s part of the coastal route. You can’t rely on services being where you expect them. So we adjusted and pushed through the final stretch.

---

Arrival in Esposende

We finished in Esposende, a quieter coastal town at the mouth of the Cávado River. Historically a fishing and trading port, it still feels understated and functional.

The albergue here is the best so far. Clean, well run, and the owner took time to explain everything properly.

Small details make a difference:

• Charging points by the bed
• Beds already made
• A proper shower

That shower was the first genuinely good one of the Camino.

---

Body and routine

So far, I’m holding up well. A fair bit of sunburn, but feet and legs are doing fine.

I’ve slipped back into my Camino habits:

• Morning: prep feet with glide, toe separators, and protection where needed
• Midday: take socks off, switch to a fresh pair, deal with any hotspots early
• Use a little lamb’s wool between toes where needed to reduce friction
• Finish the day without issues building up

I’ve only been washing the essentials each day and hanging them on the back of my pack while walking. They dry surprisingly well just from movement and sun, so by the time I arrive, most of it is ready again.

---

Looking ahead

Tomorrow we head to Viana do Castelo, a longer day of about 16 miles. It’s one of the standout towns on the Portuguese coastal route, so the plan will be to keep a steady pace and arrive with enough energy to enjoy it.

---

Three days in, and it’s starting to come together. The rhythm, the routine, the small adjustments. Less thinking, more just walking north.

Old defunct windmill

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1BWa5gD9Cb/?mibextid=wwXIfr

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXKyBZqjiIU/?igsh=MTRqc3dhMXc4NWhldg==

https://strava.app.link/YTt0i9VXp2b

Thursday 16 April – Camino Portugués, Day 2

Left Matosinhos this morning after a rough night. The albergue was full. Eight in the room, and between the snoring and the other usual sounds, sleep was patchy at best. Part of it.

We didn’t rush out. Took our time and waited a couple of hours before getting our first proper coffee and a pastel. That helped reset things a bit.

Today was a long one. By the end of it we were around 35,000 steps. Somewhere in the 15 to 16 mile range. You feel that.

The day itself was tough in a different way. The sun was strong and we both got burnt. Had to stop and pick up some cream along the way. Feet are starting to feel it now. My calves are tight, Achilles still there in the background. You notice a pattern. The first 75 percent of the walk feels manageable, then the last 25 percent turns into a grind.

That said, the route is stunning. The coastline just keeps delivering. Long stretches right by the ocean, waves coming in, and then these reminders of how dangerous it can be. We passed monuments and memorials marking lives lost at sea. Boats, submarines, wrecks. It’s a different layer to the walk. Beautiful, but with weight to it.

Stopped a couple of times along the way, just to take it in and to rest the feet. You need those pauses on a day like this.

Met more people today. It’s definitely getting busier now. Pilgrims everywhere. Spoke with people from Italy, New Zealand, Canada, Germany, Poland, and plenty from England. One Italian lady had been involved in organizing the Olympic Games, which was unexpected. Everyone has a story. Everyone’s open.

We found a really good local restaurant this evening. Probably the most authentic one so far. Not commercial at all. Just local food, done properly. We’ve noticed that things don’t really get going here until around 7pm, which is later than we’ve been used to, but it fits the rhythm here.

The albergue tonight is not the best we’ve stayed in. Basic, crowded again, but it does the job. Breakfast at 7:30 in the morning, then straight back out.

We’re now at the point where the route splits. You can go inland or stay on the coast. We’re sticking with the original plan and continuing along the coast.

Tomorrow is another 15 to 16 mile day. That’s going to be a test.

We’re both tired. A bit burnt. Feet talking.

But we’re in it now.

Wednesday 15 April – Camino Portugués, Day 1

It begins.

We woke up early in Porto, 7am breakfast at the hotel. Different feel this morning. Not rushed, but purposeful. Bags mostly packed, minds already on the road.

We walked up to Sé Cathedral, where it all starts. Got our pilgrim passports stamped, took a moment there, and then began finding our way out of the city. It’s a quiet kind of moment, but it lands. You know you’re starting something real.

Not long after, we stopped for a proper strong Portuguese coffee and something to eat. The coffee here doesn’t mess around. As we moved through the streets, we found ourselves in parts of Porto that felt completely local. No tourists, just people living life. Cafés full, people outside talking, taking their time. It’s a different rhythm. You don’t see that in the States in the same way. There’s an ease, a connection, a sense that people know each other. It’s a walking culture. You feel it everywhere. People are out, moving, and it shows. Everyone looks fit just from how they live day to day.

We looped back to the hotel, got properly geared up, packs on, and then walked back to the cathedral. That second walk felt different. This time it counted.

From there, we started the Camino Portugués.

The route today took us out along the coast toward Matosinhos. Around seven miles on paper, but with everything included it was closer to 12 by the time we arrived. Ended the day around 28,000 steps.

It’s mostly flat, so not technically hard, but the pack changes everything. You feel it in your shoulders and your stride. It’s a different kind of effort.

Physically, my calf bones as my friend Dean calls them were fine today. That was good to feel. My Achilles tightened up by the end of the day though, which got my attention. Nothing major, just something to watch. Tomorrow is a 14 mile day, so it’ll be interesting to see how that plays out. That said, I’m feeling good. It’ll be fine.

The weather shifted as we went. Light drizzle early on, then it broke open into proper sunshine. Completely changed the day. First real sun since Sophie left. I actually had to stop and put sunscreen on, which says a lot.

We arrived into Matosinhos, a proper working coastal town. Everywhere you look, it’s fish restaurants. Fresh, local, no fuss. I’m about to try stingray for the first time.

Wine is still cheaper than water. That hasn’t changed.

Tonight we’re in an albergue. About 110 square feet, eight beds. Basic, tight, but exactly what it should be. Big shift from the hotel in Porto. That’s part of the transition. You go from comfort into the Camino. From visitor to pilgrim.

Already met people from Germany, Holland, Sweden, and America. Everyone open, everyone friendly. There’s a shared understanding straight away.

We’re a few miles into what’s roughly a 180 mile journey. Early days, but it’s started.

Tomorrow steps up. 14 miles.

Today was about beginning. Finding a rhythm. Feeling the pack. Paying attention.

It’s underway now.

Playing at some videos. It will get better

Tuesday 14 April – Porto

Last full day before the Camino.

Spent the morning with Sophie just walking the city. No plan, just letting it unfold. Found a proper local place for lunch. Simple Portuguese food, nothing overdone, just good honest cooking. You can tell straight away when it’s the real thing.

Picked up a couple of things to remember Porto. Sophie found some bits for the kids. I kept it minimal. She kindly took a few things back for me so I don’t have to carry them across Portugal and into Spain. That felt like the right call.

Around lunchtime the weather broke and the sun came out. It made a huge difference. The whole city lifted, and so did I. Porto in the sun is a completely different place.

There’s an ease to life here I didn’t expect. Ubers are cheap, everything’s close, and you don’t feel any friction moving around. It just works.

Sophie flew out around 6. We had a fantastic time together and it was sad to see her leave, but it really was a special few days. I am going to miss that girl

Victor arrived just after 4, so it was a quick turnaround at the airport. Dropped Sophie, picked him up, and straight back into it.

Even though Victor had about three hours sleep in the last 24 hours, he was straight into it. Full energy. I ended up playing tour guide and gave him a proper whirlwind tour of Porto. Down to the river, along the Douro, across to the bridge, through the old streets. Covered a lot of ground. Over 20,000 steps by the end of it.

Good energy all day. Felt steady, simple, and ready.

It’s happening tomorrow. It begins.

Begin the Begin not the Beguine 😉

Monday 4.13.26 – Porto

Good full day in Porto. Felt like we settled into it properly.

We started at the Centro Português de Fotografia, set inside the old Cadeia da Relação prison. Proper solid place. Thick stone walls, big staircases, you can feel what it used to be. It’s been turned into a photography museum but it hasn’t lost its edge. You’re walking through history, not just looking at photos.

Outside is Largo Amor de Perdição with the statue of Camilo Castelo Branco. Worth knowing the story. He’s one of Portugal’s big writers, known for intense romantic tragedy. He was actually locked up in that prison after a love affair that caused a scandal, and while he was inside he wrote Amor de Perdição. That book is a big deal here. So the statue, the square, and the prison all connect. Once you know that, it lands differently.

From there we headed down to Ribeira along the Douro. Classic Porto. Bridge above, river moving, buildings stacked up the hill.

We had dinner down by the river. Great setting. Food was average if I’m honest, but we had a good bottle of wine so that carried it.

After that we just moved. No real plan, just walking, talking, letting it unfold.

Ended up at the Royal Cocktail Club. Proper spot. Good drinks, good energy. Then finished with ice cream. Coconut. Right call.

Best part of the day was the feel. Easy. A lot of laughs. Conversations went a bit further than expected. Probably too many disclosures, but the good kind.

Tuesday shifts things. Victor arrives, Sophie heads back to England.

Camino starts Wednesday.

Monday the 13th of April, two days before the Camino starts, we spent the day going deeper into Porto and seeing more of the city properly.

We started at Igreja do Carmo, the church with the famous blue tiled wall on the side. Up close, the detail is incredible, full scenes built into the tiles that you can stand and study for quite a while.

From there we walked through Jardim da Cordoaria, where the trees are huge and old, with thick trunks that feel like they’ve been there forever. It’s a calm space in the middle of the city and a nice contrast before heading back into the streets.

We made our way toward Torre dos Clérigos, which you can see from all over Porto. It becomes a kind of landmark as you move around, always helping you get your bearings.

From there we wandered down through the older parts of the city, eventually heading toward Ribeira, the riverside area. The streets narrow, the buildings get more worn and full of character, and everything feels a bit more raw and real.

At the river, we spent time near the Dom Luís I Bridge, seeing it both from above earlier and then from below. Standing underneath it gives you a completely different perspective, massive and industrial, stretching across the Douro.

We also passed the Sandeman building along the riverfront, one of the iconic port houses, before walking along the waterfront where cafés and people line the edge of the river.

We went into São Bento Station, which is one of the highlights of the day. Inside, the walls are covered in blue and white tile murals showing scenes from Portuguese history. It’s far more than just a train station, you end up standing there taking it all in.

Along the way we kept spotting Camino markers set into the ground, the yellow arrows and shells. They start to appear more often once you notice them, each one quietly pointing the way forward.

We also found a few lighter moments along the way, including a sign that read “Of course size matters, no one wants a small glass of wine,” and a small window display with an old telephone and a note saying “I just called to say I love you.”

The weather stayed grey with light rain on and off, but it suited Porto. It slowed things down and gave the whole city a softer feel.

By the end of the day, it felt like we’d moved beyond just seeing Porto and started to settle into it. And with the Camino markers showing up more and more, there’s a growing sense that this is all leading somewhere.

Sunday the 12th of April, three days before the Camino starts, we checked out of the hotel and had breakfast before heading into London. Took the tube to Victoria, then on to Gatwick, and from there flew to Porto.

Once we arrived, we checked into the hotel and realized I’d messed up the booking and only reserved one bed. We improvised with what they call a “French bed” setup, basically a pillow barrier down the middle, and made it work.

Later we went out to explore, had some local food and Portuguese wine. Everything was rich, very filling, and genuinely good. We ended up completely full and a bit tipsy by the end of it. No octopus yet.

After eating, we headed out to see Porto at night. The city has a completely different feel after dark, warm, lively, and full of energy. We made our way to the fountain and spent some time just taking it all in, then stumbled across a great ice cream shop. We both went for coconut, which hit perfectly after the heavy meal. It was the ideal way to end the night.

So today (4.12.26) was a day in London with Shaun and Sophie the day before I leave for Portugal for the Camino coastal route

We had a fun packed day shopping in Fortnum and Mason, a great meal in Chinatown, at my favorite Chinese restaurant that goes back to when I was a student It’s rated by Financial Times as the best crispy duck in the world. Last time Sophie and I went there it wasn’t such a great experience as we had a live mouse in the restaurant. Although what’s a concern is when we went to the pub after the Box there was a mouse running around in the bar

The Matt Rife concert was really epic, still amazed that he can fill the O2 Arena in London with 15,000 people. The first half of his show was stand-up comedy and the second half was crowd stuff that was hilarious. It was an extremely long, tired day, but absolutely worth every minute. Focus now turns to making all the connections to get to Portugal.

Like last time, I apologies in advance for my grammar and spelling. I normally just dictating into the phone. I never go back to check the spelling of grammar. It’s somewhere between being authentic and being lazy.

YOLO

The trip from Tulsa to London was almost textbook. Everything was on time or even early. My bag was the first of the carousel no problem at Security. Train was there to take me to London and then a tube. From landing to be in my hotel in London was about 2 1/2 hours and anybody who’s done this journey knows that that rarely doesn’t happen. Perhaps that’s a good sign.

I had about 45 minute cat nap when I got here then I went out walking through London and it’s spring break here so it’s very busy

Didn’t really do much apart from exploring I did go against my daughter‘s advice and had an Indian meal. Sophie said you shouldn’t have a Delhi belly for traveling 😉 I also had to get a pint of beer from my misspent youth called London Pride. Walking around London brought back many memories from my days living here. It really hasn’t changed much and the energy is unbelievable.

Tomorrow Sophie and Shaun are coming up to London and we’re going to see a Matt Rife concert On Sunday morning we head off to Porto. Porto is where the Camino starts. Victor from Tulsa will be arriving on Tuesday afternoon for us to start on Wednesday morning.

After being mostly off alcohol now for eight weeks, as part of my training, decided to celebrate with an old-fashioned at Tulsa and then Dallas

Part of these post how to get used to using WordPress again as it’s almost 2 years since I used it on the El Camino so please go with me

I fly into London for two nights and I’m going to a Matt Rife concert with daughter Sophie and hubby Shaun. Then Sophie and I fly to Porto for a couple of nights as she sees me off on the Camino Portugal Coastal route. My buddy Victor from Tulsa will be joining me on this one. Hopefully he will still be a buddy at the end of it although that’s questionable. 

“Solvitur ambulando.”

Meaning: “It is solved by walking.”

Used to express that a problem is resolved through practical action rather than theory.

This is the first Portugal Post