Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 7
A Guarda → Baiona
Distance: ~22 miles
Steps: ~45,000+ (Victor ~50,000)
The toughest day yet
Today was hard. Proper hard.
We ended up doing around 22 miles, about 45,000 steps, with Victor pushing closer to 50,000. Way beyond what we expected when we set off.
The start
Victor had a rough night. Was sick, didn’t sleep well, so we left much later than usual.
On top of that, we thought this was going to be a 14 mile day at most.
It wasn’t even close.
That set the tone early.
The psychological shift
There’s a real psychological effect when you think you’ve got a manageable day and then realise it’s something else entirely.
At the start, 14 miles feels fine.
When that becomes 20 plus, it hits you.
But later in the day, the reverse happens. You think you’ve got more left than you actually do, and when you realise it’s less, it gives you a lift.
You ride those waves all day.
The route and history
This stretch is classic Galician coast.
You’re moving along old fishing territory, small villages that have been working the Atlantic for generations. Places like Oia, where the Monastery of Santa María de Oia sits right on the coastline. It’s been there since the 12th century, originally a Cistercian monastery, and you pass it almost unexpectedly. Big, solid, right against the ocean, built to last.
A lot of this route follows old coastal tracks that were used long before this became a Camino route. Fishermen, traders, local movement between villages.
You see it in:
- Stone walls
- Narrow paths
- Old houses facing the sea
It’s not polished. It’s working coastline.
As you move north, the terrain shifts between:
- Coastal paths
- Small road sections
- Rolling climbs
And then toward the end, it turns more demanding.
The grind
We broke the day into sections and just kept moving.
Talking helped. Keeps the mind engaged and stops you dropping too far into the fatigue.
Right towards the end, we saw what looked like a mountain ahead. Assumed we’d skirt it.
We didn’t.
Straight up and across the top.
By then:
- Light was fading
- Rain had started
- Legs were gone
It all stacked up into what felt like a proper test. Almost a rite of passage type day.
The finish
We came in as night closed in, in the rain.
At the start of the day, it didn’t look possible.
But we did it.
That’s the simple truth.
The body
Body’s taken a hit.
Feet sore, legs heavy.
About 2 miles from the end, I felt a hotspot starting. Didn’t want to stop, but did anyway and sorted it. Right call.
Also had some proper chafing issues. Kit gave up halfway through the day, which made things uncomfortable. Trip to the pharmacy later to deal with that.
Arrival
The albergue is basic, but after a day like that, it doesn’t matter.
Straight into the shower.
Now sitting in a very local bar waiting for food. No English, no tourists, just locals. Prices are low, service is slow, and getting the bill takes patience.
You just go with it.
The lesson
Today is a good reminder.
Trust, but verify.
We’ve been using apps and tools a lot, including ChatGPT, and it’s useful. But you can’t take it as exact.
Call it 80 percent reliable.
The rest, you figure out on the ground.
That’s part of the Camino as well.
The feel
Physically, we’re pretty beaten up.
But mentally and spiritually, strong.
Spirits stayed good all the way through, which made a big difference.
Looking ahead
Tomorrow is Baiona → Vigo.
We’re being told around 15 to 16 miles.
After today, we’re not taking that at face value.
Plan is:
- Start earlier
- Stay steady
- Break it into sections again
- Expect it to be longer than advertised
From what we understand, it’s:
- Still coastal to begin with
- Then gradually more built up as you approach Vigo
More infrastructure, more people, less isolated than today.
Bottom line
Today looked easy.
It wasn’t.
It turned into one of the toughest days so far.
And we got through it.
That’s what counts.
