Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 6
Caminha (Portugal) → A Guarda (Spain)
Distance: ~7 miles
Border crossing day
Bit of a slower start this morning, which was needed after yesterday.
Clothes hadn’t dried overnight, so first job was finding a laundrette to finish them off. Not glamorous, but part of the rhythm now. You either stay on top of it or it catches you out.
Breakfast was decent, then had a proper walk around Caminha before leaving. It’s a good town. Old square, bits of history, not overdone. Worth taking the time rather than just passing through. Got some solid footage.
The crossing
Plan was simple. Ferry across the river into Spain.
Didn’t happen.
Water levels were too low, so the ferry wasn’t running. The alternative was a small speedboat, run by a local fisherman, taking five people at a time.
So that’s what we did.
You walk down to the river, stand there looking across at Spain, and instead of a proper ferry terminal, you’ve got this small boat rocking in the water.
We climbed in, packs and all, sat low in the boat, and off we went.
It was quick, a bit bumpy, and felt very local. No fuss, no system, just someone getting you from one side to the other.
Much better than a ferry in a way. Felt like a proper crossing.
You could see the Spanish side getting closer, and it had a bit more meaning because of how we got there.
First steps in Spain
Straight off the boat and straight into it.
No gentle start. Immediate climb.
Proper push uphill through wooded trails. Narrow in places, uneven ground, more technical than the coastal paths we’d been on.
It was a good change. Different type of effort. Gets your attention straight away.
The day
Only about 7 miles today.
After the last few days of 15 to 18 miles, it feels odd. You keep thinking there must be more to do.
Like you’re stopping too early.
But that’s the point of today.
Stopped for a coffee and bumped into people we’ve seen along the way. Irish ladies from earlier days, plus a Dutch couple. Good chat, bit of connection. That’s one of the better parts of this whole thing.
Arrival
Came off the climb and A Guarda opened up below.
Proper seaside town. Working harbour, fishing boats, simple feel to it. Not polished, but real.
It’s known for its seafood, especially lobster, and you can see that straight away around the port.
Up above the town is Monte Santa Trega, with old Celtic settlements going back over 2,000 years. You don’t need to be into history to feel that this place has been around a long time.
We’re staying in a former convent.
Thick stone walls, simple rooms, quiet atmosphere. You can feel the age of it. Not modern in the flashy sense, but solid and grounded.
The shift
Something’s changed physically now.
After a few hard days, the body has caught up.
No niggles. No real aches.
Carrying the pack, around 15 to 17 pounds, and it barely registers. You just move without thinking about it.
Same thing happened on the Frances. There’s a point where it all settles in and becomes normal.
Feels like we’ve hit that point again.
The tension
Interesting one today.
Part of me wants to keep going. Add more miles. Push on.
But I know that’s not the smart move.
Today is about restraint. Letting the body recover so you can keep going properly over the next stretch.
That’s part of the discipline out here.
Evening in A Guarda
Went out this evening and had a proper look around.
Really quite picturesque. Harbour, small streets, good feel to it.
Found a small bar. Very basic food, but exactly what we needed. Simple, no fuss, and enjoyable.
Spent some time feeding the seagulls as well. Absolute units. One of them took what looked like half a loaf of bread in one go.
Ridiculous, but funny to watch.
Looking ahead
Back to it tomorrow. A Guarda to Baiona, around 12 to 13 miles.
Looks like we might get a bit of rain, which I’m actually looking forward to. Carried the rain gear, so it’ll be good to finally use it.
Probably another couple of days along the coast, then we turn inland and head properly towards Santiago.
From there, it’s steady progress. Mid-teen miles most days.
The feel
Good day.
Not about distance, just about resetting.
Body feels strong again.
Ready to get moving tomorrow.
