Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 12
Caldas de Reis → Padrón
April 26, 2026
Distance: ~13 miles
Steps: ~28,000 (Bob)
Changing it up
Going to change things up a bit today and start with Victor’s perspective.
Partly because it was a big day for him mentally, and partly because it probably shows he’s a lot deeper than I am.
Victor’s reflection
He said there was a clear shift today.
Up until now, he’d been feeling sad that the Camino was coming to an end. Almost trying to slow things down, stretch the days out, not wanting it to finish.
Then today, it flipped.
It became about finishing. Getting to Santiago. Getting it done.
And he caught himself doing it.
That same pattern from normal life. The rush. The need to complete and move on. Like finishing a meal and immediately wanting the bill.
It didn’t sit right with him.
One minute he was fully in it, enjoying the walk, the conversations, the experience. The next, his mind was already ahead, trying to close it out.
He had to stop himself.
Remind himself to slow down. To stay present. To not rush something that actually matters.
The weight
On top of that, he had a lot on his mind.
Thinking about Kingston. Lori. Work.
You could feel that it was a heavier day for him.
Physically as well.
He said it was the hottest day so far, sweating a lot more, and just generally more tired than usual.
His right quad started playing up. Tight, a bit of numbness, not quite right. Enough to make him question tomorrow.
That planted a bit of doubt.
The awareness
But what stood out was the awareness.
He recognised it.
Didn’t let it run.
Pulled himself back.
Said to himself:
- Slow down
- Stay in it
- Don’t rush the end
The insight
The best line of the day from him:
This trip has been like going away with someone and getting to know them.
Except that someone is yourself.
That landed.
The reset
By the evening, he’d already reset.
Talking about being intentional tomorrow. Staying positive. Not focusing on pain.
And remembering that every day we’ve questioned, we’ve still done it.
The night before
Sleep was mixed.
I was up for a couple of hours. Kids outside, Saturday night noise.
Victor had one of his best nights.
Same place, different experience.
The start
We left later than we ever have. Just after 10:00 AM.
Thought we’d be the last out.
Not even close.
More pilgrims now than any other point. You can feel the pull toward Santiago.
Late morning check-in
Around 12:06 PM, about an hour and fifteen in.
Covered roughly 4.65 miles.
Good progress for a late start.
The conditions
Hottest day so far.
You could feel it building through the afternoon.
More sweat, more effort, more fatigue.
The walk
A steady day.
No major climbs, no drama.
Just moving forward.
Toward the end, legs felt heavy. Heat didn’t help.
Arrival into Padrón
First impression wasn’t great.
Came in through what felt like the rough side. Litter, not well kept.
First time we’ve seen that on the trip.
Got better as we moved toward the centre.
The apartment
Another apartment tonight.
More comfortable, but more hassle.
Harder to find, more coordination.
Not as simple as an albergue.
The town
Padrón has history.
This is where St James is said to have first arrived by boat.
It’s also known for the famous Padrón peppers, although we didn’t actually get them as they’re out of season.
The physical
End of day:
- ~26,000 steps (Bob)
- ~30,000 steps (Victor)
- ~13.1 miles
Body tired.
Legs heavy.
The bigger picture
From Porto to here:
- ~165–170 miles walked
- ~350,000 to 400,000 steps
Remaining:
- ~16 miles to Santiago
Bob
For me, simpler day.
Tired, but steady.
No big swings.
Just aware we’re one day out.
The evening
Strong finish.
Local place, no tourists.
Good food.
Relaxed evening with pilgrims we’ve met along the way.
Where we are
One day out.
Body tired.
Mind aware.
The close
Sitting at dinner at 7:44 PM.
Victor’s thinking deeply.
I’m just getting on with it.
Tomorrow we walk into Santiago.
Final day.
Time to finish it properly.
