Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 11
Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis
April 25, 2026
Distance: ~15 miles
Steps: ~35,000
We left later than we ever have today, around 9:15 or 9:30, and were among the last to leave the albergue.
At this point, it doesn’t really matter.
We’re in a rhythm now. We understand how this works. There’s no real advantage in rushing out early just to arrive somewhere that’s still closed.
The start
About an hour in, roughly 2.75 miles down, and settling into the day.
Distance ended up being closer to 15 miles, which again just feels normal now.
More pilgrims straight away. You can feel the build as Santiago gets closer.
Along the way
Today had a strong sense of history running through it.
A lot of woodland walking, shaded and quiet, but layered with:
- Old stone paths worn down over centuries
- Cruceiros marking the route
- Small chapels and shrines
- Traditional Galician stone houses
You pass through places that feel unchanged.
People going about their day, watching pilgrims pass like it’s always been this way.
There are sections that feel Roman, others medieval. It’s not just a walk, it’s a path that’s been used for generations.
The people
Met some great people again today.
Iona from Edinburgh stood out early on.
More bikes on the trail now as well, so staying aware.
The shift
We’re recognising people now.
Same faces showing up again and again.
No introductions needed anymore. Just a nod, a quick word, shared understanding.
The feel
Energy stayed high all day.
We’re properly in stride now.
Even had another bit of a dance with the backpacks on, which seems to have become a theme.
The numbers
Finished the day on about 35,000 steps.
When you think about that, day after day, it’s a bit ridiculous compared to normal life.
But out here, it’s just what you do.
The body
Blister held up.
Managed it well this morning and it stayed under control.
Knees good.
Legs tired, but that’s just the baseline now.
Community and connection
Today was about people.
Lots of familiar faces, lots of new ones.
Walking together, sitting in cafés, drifting in and out of conversations.
It’s less about the miles now and more about the experience.
Victor
First day where Victor and I didn’t walk most of it together.
Probably 80 percent apart, linking up here and there.
Good to see.
He’s in it now. In the rhythm. Connecting with people.
That’s one of the real gifts of the Camino.
Arrival into Caldas de Reis
Came into Caldas de Reis and you can feel the history straight away.
This place dates back to Roman times, known for its thermal springs.
You can still see them today. Hot water flowing through parts of the town, steam rising.
Crossed over the old Roman bridge coming in, which sets the tone.
Town has a good feel:
- River running through it
- Stone buildings
- Plenty of life, cafés, and restaurants
The countdown
Now two days out.
It’s real.
You start to see it in the markers, the people, the conversations.
We’ll see a lot of the same faces again in Santiago.
Slowing down
We’re taking more time now.
Longer coffee stops.
Less rushing.
As Victor said, just soaking it up.
The evening
Another strong evening.
Asked a local for a place to eat without tourists.
Didn’t disappoint.
Simple, local, relaxed.
Sat with pilgrims we’ve met along the way, easy conversation.
The close
Back now, resting ahead of the penultimate day.
Body good.
Head clear.
And very aware this is coming to an end.
