Viana do Castelo → Caminha
Distance: 18 miles
Steps: ~39,000
Last full day in Portugal
Started the day simply. Breakfast was nothing to write home about.
We stopped early for a coffee by the beach. Victor had a pastel. I stuck with coffee. That was enough to get going.
Straight onto the trail after that. No hanging around. Also reminded ourselves to actually start the tracking app. Easy to forget, but it matters.
And the stamps. Two a day. No stamps, no Compostela at the end. Simple as that.
The walk
We stayed on the coast. Flat, which was welcome after yesterday. Cooler too, around 70°F.
Knee brace on. Poles out. That helped.
Plenty of bikes again. You just stay aware and keep moving.
Midday reality
Around 1pm we hit 9 miles.
We both thought we had maybe 15 or 16 total, so figured we were close.
Checked it.
Still over 10 miles to go.
That takes the wind out of you a bit.
Feet were burning. Victor called it early. I had a hotspot starting, so stopped and sorted it properly.
That’s one thing you learn quickly. Don’t push through it. Stop, fix it, move on.
3PM check-in
About 2½ to 3 hours left.
We were both tired. Bit frustrated. Not much talking by then.
If you had to score it:
- Physical: 3 or 4 out of 10
- Mental: 6 or 7
You just keep going. There isn’t really another option.
Funny thing is, in the morning you feel like an 8 or 9 across the board. Ready for it. As the day goes on, that drops off.
You also stop caring about small things. Bad service, people getting in the way, cyclists. You just move on. Not worth the energy.
Last stretch
Last third was just one step at a time.
No rhythm. No flow. Just keep going.
As we got close, maybe a quarter mile out, you feel it shift.
You know you’re nearly there, so your head lifts.
But physically you’re running on empty.
Strange combination, but very real.
Arrival
Caminha. Last stop in Portugal.
18 miles. Around 39,000 steps.
We treated ourselves to a hotel. Needed it.
Good shower. Proper reset.
Washed all my clothes in the sink and hung them up. Hopefully dry by morning. If not, they go on the back of the pack like everything else.
Looking ahead
Tomorrow is a short one.
Boat across into Spain, then an easy walk into A Guarda.
Call it a reset day. Body needs it.
Perspective
Everything I’ve got is in a backpack. About 15 pounds.
That’s your life out here.
You realise pretty quickly you don’t need much.
Walk. Eat. Rest.
That’s it.
The feel
Hard day.
Took a lot out of us.
But we got it done.
And that’s what matters.
