Camino Portugués Coastal – Day 3

Vila do Conde → Esposende
Distance: ~15 miles
Steps: ~35,000
From Porto: ~35 miles completed
To Santiago: ~135 miles remaining

Today was a full day. About 15 miles and roughly 35,000 steps.

It was sunny again. Not brutally hot, but constant exposure, and I got burned for the second day running. The coastal route gives you long open stretches with very little shade, so it builds over time.

Victor’s Instagram reel: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXKyBZqjiIU/?igsh=MTRqc3dhMXc4NWhldg==

Bob’s Strava activity: https://strava.app.link/YTt0i9VXp2b

Victor’s Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1BWa5gD9Cb/?mibextid=wwXIfr

I’m starting to settle into a rhythm now. What’s working is breaking the day into thirds.

First third, about 5 miles in, stop for coffee.
Second third, around 10 miles, look for lunch.
Final third, push through to the destination.

Simple, but it works.

Vila do Conde → Esposende

We left Vila do Conde this morning, a town with strong maritime history. It played a role during Portugal’s Age of Discovery, particularly in shipbuilding. You can feel that as you walk out along the river and toward the coast.

From there, the route stays close to the Atlantic. Boardwalks, dunes, small fishing areas, and long open stretches. As we moved further north, it became noticeably less commercial. Fewer cafés, fewer places to stop.

That showed up today.

We reached the 10-mile mark expecting to find somewhere for lunch, and there was nothing. That’s part of the coastal route. You can’t rely on services being where you expect them. So we adjusted and pushed through the final stretch.

Arrival in Esposende

We finished in Esposende, a quieter coastal town at the mouth of the Cávado River. Historically a fishing and trading port, it still feels understated and functional.

The albergue here is the best so far. Clean, well run, and the owner took time to explain everything properly.

Small details make a difference:

Charging points by the bed
Beds already made
A proper shower

That shower was the first genuinely good one of the Camino.

Body and routine

So far, I’m holding up well. A fair bit of sunburn, but feet and legs are doing fine.

I’ve slipped back into my Camino habits:

Morning: prep feet with glide, toe separators, and protection where needed
Midday: take socks off, switch to a fresh pair, deal with any hotspots early
Use a little lamb’s wool between toes where needed to reduce friction
Finish the day without issues building up

I’ve only been washing the essentials each day and hanging them on the back of my pack while walking. They dry surprisingly well just from movement and sun, so by the time I arrive, most of it is ready again.

Looking ahead

Tomorrow we head to Viana do Castelo, a longer day of about 16 miles. It’s one of the standout towns on the Portuguese coastal route, so the plan will be to keep a steady pace and arrive with enough energy to enjoy it.

Three days in, and it’s starting to come together. The rhythm, the routine, the small adjustments. Less thinking, more just walking north.