Thursday 16 April – Camino Portugués, Day 2
Left Matosinhos this morning after a rough night. The albergue was full. Eight in the room, and between the snoring and the other usual sounds, sleep was patchy at best. Part of it.
We didn’t rush out. Took our time and waited a couple of hours before getting our first proper coffee and a pastel. That helped reset things a bit.
Today was a long one. By the end of it we were around 35,000 steps. Somewhere in the 15 to 16 mile range. You feel that.
The day itself was tough in a different way. The sun was strong and we both got burnt. Had to stop and pick up some cream along the way. Feet are starting to feel it now. My calves are tight, Achilles still there in the background. You notice a pattern. The first 75 percent of the walk feels manageable, then the last 25 percent turns into a grind.
That said, the route is stunning. The coastline just keeps delivering. Long stretches right by the ocean, waves coming in, and then these reminders of how dangerous it can be. We passed monuments and memorials marking lives lost at sea. Boats, submarines, wrecks. It’s a different layer to the walk. Beautiful, but with weight to it.
Stopped a couple of times along the way, just to take it in and to rest the feet. You need those pauses on a day like this.
Met more people today. It’s definitely getting busier now. Pilgrims everywhere. Spoke with people from Italy, New Zealand, Canada, Germany, Poland, and plenty from England. One Italian lady had been involved in organizing the Olympic Games, which was unexpected. Everyone has a story. Everyone’s open.
We found a really good local restaurant this evening. Probably the most authentic one so far. Not commercial at all. Just local food, done properly. We’ve noticed that things don’t really get going here until around 7pm, which is later than we’ve been used to, but it fits the rhythm here.
The albergue tonight is not the best we’ve stayed in. Basic, crowded again, but it does the job. Breakfast at 7:30 in the morning, then straight back out.
We’re now at the point where the route splits. You can go inland or stay on the coast. We’re sticking with the original plan and continuing along the coast.
Tomorrow is another 15 to 16 mile day. That’s going to be a test.
We’re both tired. A bit burnt. Feet talking.
But we’re in it now.
