Monday the 13th of April, two days before the Camino starts, we spent the day going deeper into Porto and seeing more of the city properly.
We started at Igreja do Carmo, the church with the famous blue tiled wall on the side. Up close, the detail is incredible, full scenes built into the tiles that you can stand and study for quite a while.
From there we walked through Jardim da Cordoaria, where the trees are huge and old, with thick trunks that feel like they’ve been there forever. It’s a calm space in the middle of the city and a nice contrast before heading back into the streets.
We made our way toward Torre dos Clérigos, which you can see from all over Porto. It becomes a kind of landmark as you move around, always helping you get your bearings.
From there we wandered down through the older parts of the city, eventually heading toward Ribeira, the riverside area. The streets narrow, the buildings get more worn and full of character, and everything feels a bit more raw and real.
At the river, we spent time near the Dom Luís I Bridge, seeing it both from above earlier and then from below. Standing underneath it gives you a completely different perspective, massive and industrial, stretching across the Douro.
We also passed the Sandeman building along the riverfront, one of the iconic port houses, before walking along the waterfront where cafés and people line the edge of the river.
We went into São Bento Station, which is one of the highlights of the day. Inside, the walls are covered in blue and white tile murals showing scenes from Portuguese history. It’s far more than just a train station, you end up standing there taking it all in.
Along the way we kept spotting Camino markers set into the ground, the yellow arrows and shells. They start to appear more often once you notice them, each one quietly pointing the way forward.
We also found a few lighter moments along the way, including a sign that read “Of course size matters, no one wants a small glass of wine,” and a small window display with an old telephone and a note saying “I just called to say I love you.”
The weather stayed grey with light rain on and off, but it suited Porto. It slowed things down and gave the whole city a softer feel.
By the end of the day, it felt like we’d moved beyond just seeing Porto and started to settle into it. And with the Camino markers showing up more and more, there’s a growing sense that this is all leading somewhere.
